I love this first motif. In addition to a cool row type block, it would make a very interesting border. Individually the blocks look like tulips. I can envision it in pink and green. In this post I'm going to add some tips and thought that arose as I was making the slide Rock motif. This is not meant to replace the pattern - you must have the pattern to participate in the QAL. 'Nough said.
First some general thoughts - these notes apply to all the motifs.
1. You probably should get some gripper
dots for your ruler. I noticed some slippage with mine.
2. Cutting process for all the blocks –
There are 3 different cutting processes, and each has its own accuracy level
and ruler indicators.
- The first is to rough cut rectangles
and squares according to the pattern for your step. In this case close (within
1/16th) is good enough.
- The second is to cut your curved pieces. For these, follow your pattern closely. In many cases you have to make a mark to use as a cutting reference. You can cut several at a time. Some are cut right side up and some are wrong side up. This is important. To do this I stack my fabric wrong side together. These cuts should be fairly accurate, but don't worry about perfection.
- The last cut requires precision. For
this cut you will be trimming up your blocks. The pattern tells you where to
mark your ruler – I use a sharpie. You could also use GE Designs repositionable
arrows. On this cut you may find your points don’t match up to the dots on your
ruler. Ideally you want all points to match the indicators on your ruler. If
they don’t, get as close as you can on all points. In other words, don’t get
one perfect and leave three totally off.
3. Sewing process for all the blocks. Since
we will be trimming the blocks after sewing, reduce your stitch length so that
the seams don’t start coming undone. Pay close attention to how you line up the
pieces right sides together. I find I make fewer mistakes when I lay them how
they will end up and then put them right sides tighter. Sometimes one of the
pieces extends over the other .25 or .5 inches.
The amount varies with every seam so pay attention.
4. There is no need for pinning. Using
both hands – one on each piece of fabric
- Bring the seam allowances together about an inch or less before it
goes under the presser foot. Sew a quarter inch seam. The blocks will look
wonky before you trim – don’t worry you probably haven’t made a mistake. If you
machine has a hover mode (presser foot comes up when you stop sewing) it’s a good
idea to engage that feature as you sew the curves. You can stop and realign
your fabric very easily that way.
5. Pay attention to which direction to
press – again, it varies with every motif.
Block 1 Specifics
- Sedona Sky - Make 18
- Sedona Trails - Make 21
- Sedona Medallion - Make 12 (I would
use fabric amount indicated for Sky. You’ll have a bit extra)
1. Remember – cut half right side up and
half right side down.
2. Be careful when you cut your background
fabric in Step 3 - the rectangles are 4” x 4.5” and could easily be turned the
wrong direction. Make sure they are oriented correctly – the shorter side facing
you and the longer side going away from you.3. Pattern says you’ll need 3 strips of the background fabric for
Sedona Sky. I think you’ll need 4 strips, but cut 3 first and see if you need
the forth one. I did need it.
4. Ensure your “extension” amount is
correct. Extension is the amount that the top piece extends over the bottom
piece. Its usually .25 or .5 inches. It varies with every block, so pay
attention.
5. Sewing the individual blocks together takes some precision to get your points just right. Pin and take your time.
Curious about the Sedona QAL? Check it out here.